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Honeymoon Diary

Paris - April 7 – 13, 2009

Tuesday, April 7, 4:00 p.m.Leave GR for Cincinnati. Barely make it on time to get on plane for Paris. By the time we sat on the plane, ate our dinner, read a few pages in my book it was time to take out my contacts and try to sleep. We sleep well. I wake Joe up when I hear the breakfast cart come by and Joe tells me that we have a half an hour until we land in Paris!!

Wednesday, April 8, late morning
Arrive in Paris(!) airport and take train to Hotel Brebant. Joe tells me not to sleep or we will be jet lagged (but SOOO tired!) We get to our hotel room and then decide on an Irish bistro to eat lunch, still feeling kind of self conscious about my French being so rusty. After lunch we just can’t do it and take a couple hour nap. Wake up and wander around the area near our hotel. We decide that 6:00 pm on a Wednesday evening probably wouldn’t be a terribly busy time to visit the Louvre so we take our museum passes and go. It was pretty crowded for being such an off time but we saw the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, many French royalty heirlooms and paintings and Egyptian artifacts. We saw everything we wanted to see there in about two hours.


After that, we walk around some more looking for something to eat. We find a little bistro called Comet Bistro near our hotel. It was a very cozy yet trendy atmosphere. I tried my best with what little French I knew and was pleasantly surprised when the waitress couldn’t tell where our accent was from! (A lot of people assumed we were Spanish because of Joe, I’m sure it wasn’t me!) This bistro had the best escargot we’ve ever had. I still get cravings for it. We had a couple of drinks and then went to head to sleep to get ready for a big day ahead.

Thursday, April 9
Wake up early and discover that our hotel (modest though it was) had a very nice breakfast room and pretty good breakfast. Every morning we had a croissant, coffee and yogurt. (I also regularly had a chocolate croissant.)

Our first stop was of course the Eiffel Tower. Not only was it my dream destination, the place where I wanted to visit most in the world, but I also wanted to hold up a merci (thank you) sign to put on our wedding thank you cards. So, we enlisted a young guy to take our picture in front of the Eiffel Tower. I could have looked at it for hours and hours. Its such a marvelous wonder to look at. Its so delicate and so massive at the same time. Even though its one of the most famous structures on Earth, somehow when you stand next to it, it feels all your own. We walked to the line to go up the tower, but soon realized that there was a worker strike (as there had been for the past couple of days) and that the Tower would probably not open that day. We waited in line about 45 minutes anyway to see if things changed. While in line, we chatted with the family behind us from Washington state and in front of us was a woman and her two young children. They were from New Zeeland but she was born and raised in Paris. She was very friendly and gave us a good suggestion for shopping and eating. Rue Clare street. After we gave up in line, we went straight to Rue Clare and stopped for a coffee at a café. It was exactly the kind of thing I pictured when we talked about going to France: a beautiful spring morning, just back from seeing the Eiffel Tower and drinking a café at a Parisian café. There we met a few New Yorkers who had had a bad hotel experience. We wished them the best and headed off, not exactly sure where we were headed but not really caring because it was a gorgeous day and we were in Paris!




As we strolled, we stopped at a very military looking building. We walked up to its cannons and tall ramparts and realized this was the French military museum. Joe wanted to go in and look at the WWII exhibit. It was kind of a depressing thing to do on your honeymoon but very interesting. Everything was in French but luckily I can read French much better than I can understand spoken French. The little I put together was very insightful in seeing how the French regard their role in WWII and how they felt about our involvement in the war.


The next stop was the Rodin museum. Joe read in his guidebook that one of the top 10 most romantic spots in Paris was the garden in the Rodin museum. This being our honeymoon it seemed appropriate. We strolled the gardens and enjoyed the weather. The museum wasn’t very crowded and we could easily see his pieces without a large crowd in front of us. Joe got to do the thinker pose in front of the Thinker. It was probably one of our favorite attractions of the trip.

Next we stopped to get a sandwich and ate it on the steps of the Muse D’Orsay. I know it was just a sandwich with cheese and bread, but it somehow tastes so much better there; maybe because we were starving or maybe because the bread and cheese are just so fresh. Everything we ate there was absolutely amazing. Our visit to the Muse D’Orsay was kind of quick. It was very crowded with tourists and field trips. We were able to see the impressionists, Monet, Manet, Renoir, Degas and Toulouse-Lautrec. Lots of classic works of art in a short time. That’s how we like to do it!

After that we stopped to get a quick beer and plot out our next course. We decided to go to Notre Dame next. It wasn’t going to be a short walk and I quickly realized that foregoing heels might not have been the best thing. I don’t think my feet could have hurt any more in the unfashionable walking shoes I had on. If my feet were going to hurt, I could have at least looked stylish in heels! We walked and walked some more and eventually stopped on Pont Neuf to rest our feet and look out at the water. We rubbed each other’s feet and rested and begrudgingly put our shoes back on and finished the trek to Notre Dame. It was well worth the walk. It is such a small looking church but so beautiful on the inside. I’m still kicking myself for not having bought a souvenir there. It was Holy Thursday and they were setting up the church for mass. We sat and prayed a minute and then walked back to the hotel.




After a nap, we got ready and decided to go find dinner near the Eiffel Tower. We wanted to see if it was open yet and also to see it at night. We had a good dinner and talked with a couple from Baltimore sitting next to us. Then it was off to the see the Tower at night. I thought that it was fantastic during the day but it was truly breathtaking at night. The Tower was open but the line was so long that it would have closed by the time we made it up. I didn’t mind, all I wanted to do was stare at it, and take pictures, even though now the pictures don’t do it near the justice that my memory serves. It looks even bigger at night and somehow even more personal and close feeling. After Joe finally tore me away from looking up at it, we head back, stopped to get the best Nutella crepe I’ve ever had and went to bed.

Friday, April 10
We woke up early, had our usual breakfast and headed to the train to Versailles. We waited in a long line and finally were told our best bet was to head to Marie Antoinette’s estate. That sounded good until I realized it was a half an hour WALK away! Walking there I was convinced that my feet were mangled and bleeding and would never ever be the same. We did finally get there and had a lovely time. Until I looked at the foreboding sky and realized we had to walk back 30 MORE minutes. Somehow, we made it back with mangled feet and toured the castle. It was enormous, fascinating and exquisite. After my complaining about my feet, Joe deserved a much needed drink. We ate at a little outdoor café and had a Leffe Beer. Then it was back to the city, to the hotel for a nap and then getting ready for dinner.

Joe had heard about a relatively cheap restaurant that was highly rated and right around the corner from our hotel, Chartier. It was a very old restaurant and very delicious. We shared a bottle of wine and decided to head across the street to a little store that sold wine. We planned on bringing the bottle to our room and just staying in when, in the wine aisle, we heard a couple speaking in English to each other. Joe struck up a conversation with the guy and we learned that they were from LA and were buying a bottle of wine (the same kind I picked out) and were going to go to Pont Neuf to drink it. They asked if we’d like to join them. So Joe and I bought ourselves a bottle of wine and a 40 oz of French beer (classy) and walked with them (again, a long walk. Amazing how a couple of glasses of wine will make your feet not hurt so bad) to Pont Neuf. They were a fun couple about our age. She had lived in Paris for a few months a few years back and knew the area pretty well. She suggested that we go to a bar she used to go to called the Good Canadian that spoke English and had familiar beers. We walked there and had some more drinks. I, luckily paced myself by not drinking the entire second bottle of wine. I also didn’t finish either of the beers that we ordered at the Good Canadian. We played cards for quite a while and it was evident that she wasn’t feeling so hot. Lewis seemed fine. However, just as they were telling us it was last call, Lewis excused himself and went outside and proceeded to throw up in front of the picture window of the bar! After that, Joe and I had a long, dark and not exactly well known walk in front of us. After a while of trying to find our way back in the dark streets of Paris, we decided to hail a well deserved cab and call it a night.

Saturday, April 11
We woke up feeling a little worse for the wear but not too terrible. We went for our usual breakfast and decided to walk to the Arc d’Triomphe and the Champs Elysees. By now, the wine had worn off and again my feet were not in the best shape. We make it to the Arc on an absolutely picture perfect day which made the Arc that more fascinating. To think of all the history behind it and all the victories celebrated there was truly amazing. Everything in Europe is so historic and rich with stories and intrigue. It puts into perspective just how young our country is. We then walked down the Champs Elysees which was basically walking down a Parisian 5th Avenue. Many high end shops and designers. It was fun to window shop but I didn’t dare go in. We walked for what seemed like hours more until we reached a park and had a sandwich and relaxed. I slept while Joe read his book. It was a nice afternoon. We then walked back to the hotel, another nap and got some dinner at the same bistro with the incredible escargot. If only I could have brought those back! We laid low after our big night the night before and went to bed early.


Sunday, April 12 – Easter
For Easter, we decided to go to Montmatre which is a big hill just outside the city with the famous church Sacre Coure (Sacred Heart). I wanted to be able to celebrate mass there but it was so touristy and packed it didn't feel quite right to me. We stayed through the Allelulja and went on, we were tired of tourists by this point. We were, however, blessed with another gorgeous day and walked the little village. It was very quaint. We stopped in little shops and saw some amazing statues. After our morning in Montmarte, we walked the streets near our hotel looking for last minute souviners.

After a coffee at a cafe and another nap, we decided to have our last dinner again at Chartier. We were seated with a young couple. He was from Ireland (he actually lived in Michigan for an exchange program), she was from Australia and they both lived in London. Quite the interesting story. We had two bottles of wine (Joe and I sharing of course and with maybe a little help from our Irish friend) and a great meal of chicken and steak (we finally figured out how to order the steak and not get tartare).  (I really do think that French waiters and waitresses get a bad rap. We were never once treated poorly for being Americans.  I think as long as you attempt the basics of French, they are more thank willing to help you out.  How thoughtful they were to seat us to an English speaking couple so we could talk to them.  They could have seated us next to Germans or some other language that we were not familiar with.  It made our dining experience extra special to be able to meet and have dinner with another couple we could talk to.)

After that Joe and I decided to spend our last night in Paris with a bottle of wine in the Eiffel Tower park. There we sat and listened to the locals sharing wine with friends and singing American songs (good ones too, Nirvana and Oasis) and chatted with some young Tenessee teenagers on vacation with their grandparents. It was the perfect last night in Paris. I never wanted to leave and I never want to forget the magical feeling of being in front of the Eiffel Tower at night and watching it sparkle.

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